Kosculak Peak
Koskulak Peak, 7028 meters above sea level, belongs to the Muztagag Mountain in the western part of the Western Kunlun Mountains in China. It is located at 75 degrees 06 minutes east longitude and 38 degrees 14 minutes north latitude, at the border of Akto County and Taxkorgan autonomous county in Xinjiang Autonomous Region. on. The main peak of Muztagag (7509 meters above sea level) is located about 5 kilometers north of the peak of Khao Lak.
The slope on the west side of the peak is gentle and the other three sides are very steep. There are three main ridges: West Ridge, Southwest Ridge, and Northeast Ridge. The snow line is about 5300 meters above sea level. The iceberg landform is developed. The end of the glacier reaches an altitude of 4,800 meters. Both the north and south sides are the Koskulak Glacier and the Karaxiong Glacier.
climate
The area is located on the Pamirs Plateau in the abdomen of Central Asia. It is a cold and arid climate in the plateau mountains. There are numerous mountains around it blocking the entrance of the Indian Ocean and the Pacific Ocean. The climate is very dry. The precipitation mainly comes from the interaction between the upper-level westerly winds and polar cold and humid air currents.
The annual average temperature in this area is 4°C. The winter is long and cold. The summer is short and cool, the frost-free period is short, and the temperature changes day by day. Precipitation is scarce, mainly in the spring and summer, with strong evaporation and an annual average precipitation of 100 mm. There are many windy days, and there is plenty of light and radiation.
The weather at Kaifeng is changing frequently and the small cycle is obvious. The wind is mostly east wind. The best time to climb during the summer is, the weather changes faster, from the beginning of June to mid-September, the weather has started to cool, and mountaineering activities are generally arranged from June to August.
Jinshan Line
It is also convenient to enter the mountains. From Kashgar, follow State Road 314 and reach 225 km. Turn left and follow the national road. Change to an off-road vehicle/truck and continue along the easy road for about 9 km. Get off at Greentech Lake and get off and meet with the team. After tying up the materials, they entered BC on foot and traveled about 3-4 kilometers. It takes about 2.5-3 hours.
Climb the history
In July and August 2005, three teams from the United Kingdom, Spain and Russia successively climbed the mountain, leaving behind a wealth of climbing data.
Terrain and climbing routes (West Ridge Route)
Base Camp (BC):4700M
Major hazards: None.
Detailed description: The camp is located near the glacier tongue on the west side of the mountain, with an elevation of 4700 meters and a flat terrain. On the north side, there is a glacier meltwater, Alkhatek, with sufficient water and fixed river channels that will not pose a threat to the camp. The camp is a certain distance from the end of the glacier and there is no ice-collapse threat. The wind is relatively large (5-6).
BC~C1(4700~5300):
Main terrain: river valleys, side embankments, gravel slopes; main hazards: rolling stones; by way of adoption: individually.
Length of the route: about 3 kilometers; elevation increased: 600 meters; up/down time estimation: 3 hours/1 hour.
Detailed description: Early departure, crossing the river near the camp. If the water flow is more acute, it will first rise along the south bank of the river to the end of the glaciers, and then choose small rivers to cross the river. The terrain of this section is simple, with an average slope of 10-15 degrees and a maximum slope of 20 degrees. Pay attention to protect your ankles and prevent sprains. Rolling stones may occur on individual sections of the road. All members of the march must wear helmets to control the distance between them. Try to avoid walking the steep slopes and avoid the two players walking the same vertical line. Observe before and after the dangerous section. Take a quick and separate pass to avoid it.
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