AHA: the ingredients of cosmetics

Because of the rumors of fruit acid stimulation and skin damage, are you no longer hopeful and hopeful about fruit acid rejuvenation? Should you rationally give fruit acid a chance to "speak"? The following is the deconstruction of makeup ingredients for you . Unravel your misunderstanding of fruit acid.

What is fruit acid: Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) is an active ingredient found in many natural fruits or yoghurts.

The use of fruit acid can be derived from the ancient Egyptian and Roman times, but the cosmetic effect on the skin was not discovered until the 1970s by Dr. Scott Scott of the United States and Dr. Yu Ruijin of Chinese Americanity.

The role of fruit acid: When it comes to the role of fruit acid, it can be seen from both the epidermis and the dermis. When the acid acts on the epidermis, it accelerates the detachment of keratinocytes, accelerates the metabolism of epithelial cells, promotes skin renewal, and makes the epithelial cells line up more neatly, and the stratum corneum becomes smoother by reducing the aggregation force between keratinocytes. And meticulous. At the same time, the fruit acid can also make the keratinized embolization around the pores easy to fall off, and smooth the hair follicle tube, effectively preventing the pores from blocking. As for the action of fruit acid on the dermis layer, it can stimulate the proliferation and rearrangement of hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharide, collagen and elastic fiber, so that the water content of the skin increases, the skin becomes firm and elastic, and fine lines and wrinkles follow. cut back. In beauty products, only low concentrations of 3% acid are allowed; medium concentrations of fruit acid are used for freckle; more than 20% of high concentration of fruit acid can only be used for skin rejuvenation under the guidance of a professional.

You should know the classification of these fruit acids:

First generation fruit acid: glycolic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid

Glycolic acid - mainly for treatment and repair, less suitable for long-term use (for example, more than 6 months), the authority recommends that after skin repair, it is best to use second or third generation of fruit acid products as Long-term maintenance.

Citric acid - has the functions of moisturizing, anti-oxidation, metabolism, keratin, whitening, anti-aging, etc. It has been proved by clinical experiments that citric acid can significantly increase the content of hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycan in the dermis while promoting keratin metabolism. It becomes thick and has a remarkable effect on photoaging skin.

Mandelic acid - the only lipophilic fruit acid currently, has a high affinity with the skin, easily penetrates the stratum corneum and penetrates into the skin, in the face of some melanin problems, including uneven skin tone, dullness, dark spots, freckles, inflammation Post-pigmentation and so on, have obvious curative effect, which is the effect that other fruit acids can't achieve.

Second generation fruit acid: gluconic acid

Different from traditional fruit acids, gluconic acid belongs to multiple water-based fruit acids (PHA). It has four groups of hydroxyl groups in chemical structure, which has good water absorption capacity and can exert excellent moisturizing effect. On the other hand, gluconic acid also has an antioxidant effect to prevent skin damage and aging. In addition, in clinical trials, gluconic acid has also been found to enhance the barrier function of the stratum corneum, which is to enhance the defense of the stratum corneum against external chemical stimuli and to make the skin healthier. Compared with traditional fruit acids, gluconic acid is very mild and non-irritating, and is very suitable for patients with dry or sensitive skin, as well as patients with atopic dermatitis, vinasse dermatitis, and adult acne.

Third generation fruit acid: lactobionic acid

It is the most advanced fruit acid that combines repair, anti-aging, moisturizing, anti-oxidation and skin renewal.

You will often ask about the acidity ingredients:

Q: Is it an allergic reaction to use fruit acid to stimulate and peel?

A: Traditional fruit acid AHA glycolic acid, more than 80% of consumers will have a slight tingling, itching feeling, about one minute or so, this feeling will disappear, because the molecular weight of glycolic acid is small, acid and alkali If the value is low, if there is persistent tingling or redness, it should be stopped. After the skin returns to normal, reduce the amount and frequency of use, for example, 2-3 days, and wait until the skin tolerance is established. For daily use, if the consumer is still unable to adapt to the use of AHA glycolic acid, a new generation of PHA multiple water-based fruit acid can be used, which has the characteristics of mildness, moisturizing and anti-aging, and the effect of long-term use and traditional AHA glycol. The effect of acid is not only the same but also has more benefits. The function of fruit acid is to reduce the aggregation force of keratinocytes, let the old cells fall off, so there will be a little desquamation feeling, and the feeling is very subtle, if there is any uncomfortable phenomenon, you can contact the dermatologist for a correct diagnosis.

Q: What kind of skin symptoms are the fruit acids effective?

A: AHA can help the skin to remove the aged keratin accumulated in the outer layer, accelerate skin renewal, and promote the proliferation of elastic fibers, collagen, mucopolysaccharide and hyaluronic acid in the dermis to help the skin improve the following symptoms.

(1) acne includes (inflammatory papules and acne).

(2) acne scars or other superficial scars.

(3) Depthening of pigmentation after dark spots or inflammation.

(4) rough skin keratinization, including follicular keratinization, lipid leakage keratosis, and solar optical keratinization.

(5) smooth the corners of the eyes and fine lines of the mouth.

(6) The skin is dry, the skin is dull, and the pores are enlarged.

Q: What should I pay attention to when using fruit acid? How long does it take to use?

A: (1) maintenance properties or therapeutic properties: maintenance of multiple water-based fruit acid PHA, treatment choices of glycolic acid AHA.

(2) According to the regulations of the Department of Health, the pH value of fruit acid care products should be higher than 3.5. Sensitive skin test first, if there is no irritation, use it in a larger area of ​​the skin. If there is persistent irritation and redness, wash it with water to make it slowly return to normal. If it is still uncomfortable, Quick consultation can be found in a dermatologist.

(3) Be sure to use a sunscreen product. Whether it is a glycolic acid AHA or a multiple water-based fruit acid PHA, it can make your skin feel smooth and meticulous in a week or so, but if you have acne and dark spots, it takes a long time.